WatchTime New York 2026 · Launch Deep-Dive
Eleven years is a long time in watchmaking. When Oris first released the Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 111 in 2015, it made a strong statement: a manufacture movement with a hand-wound ten-day power reserve in a field-tool pilot case at an accessible price. Then the watch quietly disappeared. At WatchTime New York 2026, Oris brought it back — same calling card, updated execution — and confirmed what the brand has spent a decade building towards: the ProPilot Calibre 111 is its strongest single argument for making Oris your pilot-watch choice in 2026.
The watch made its official debut on 16 October at Gotham Hall, where it earned the “best value” designation in our Day 2 recap — not as faint praise, but as recognition that very few watches on that floor at any price offered a more coherent case for themselves. This deep-dive goes beyond the one-line take: every spec, how the design evolved, what the movement actually does, who the competition is, and whether $7,200 is justified.
TL;DR
Watch: Oris Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 111 (2026). Case: 43mm × 13.2mm stainless steel, 51mm lug-to-lug, 100m WR. Movement: Oris Calibre 111, manual wind, 28,800 vph, 240-hour (10-day) power reserve. Dials: Black or pine green, both with Super-LumiNova and non-linear power-reserve indicator. Price: $7,200 on Cordovan leather strap / $7,400 on steel bracelet (CHF 5,900 / CHF 6,100); immediate availability, permanent collection. The case for it: the only pilot watch near this price with a ten-day reserve and a display caseback showing Oris’s in-house barrel.
Specs
| Reference | 01 111 7808 4164-07 (black) · 01 111 7808 4167-07 (pine green) |
| Case diameter | 43 mm |
| Thickness | 13.2 mm |
| Lug-to-lug | 51 mm |
| Case material | Stainless steel |
| Crystal | Domed sapphire, internal anti-reflective coating |
| Caseback | Sapphire display window |
| Water resistance | 100 m |
| Movement | Oris Calibre 111, manually wound manufacture |
| Frequency | 28,800 vph (4 Hz) |
| Power reserve | 240 hours (10 days) |
| Dials | Black or pine green; vertical-brush centre, textured outer ring |
| Lug width | 20 mm |
| Straps / bracelet | Dark brown Cordovan leather or stainless steel bracelet, both with LIFT folding clasp |
| Price (USD) | $7,200 strap · $7,400 bracelet |
| Price (CHF) | CHF 5,900 strap · CHF 6,100 bracelet |
| Availability | Immediate, permanent collection; five-year warranty when registered with MyOris |
Prices as confirmed 16 October 2026 at WatchTime New York 2026. SGD pricing not yet published.
The case: eleven years on, properly refined
The original ProPilot Calibre 111 had the right fundamentals — a robust, legible pilot case with the oversized screw-down crown built for gloved hands — but its ergonomics were from an earlier generation of case design. The 2026 revision borrows substantially from the ProPilot Date’s updates: the lug geometry is more comfortable on the wrist, the bracelet integration is cleaner, and the LIFT folding clasp mechanism that allows on-the-fly micro-adjustment has been fitted to both the steel bracelet and the Cordovan leather strap options.
At 43 mm × 51 mm lug-to-lug, this is a proper pilot’s watch in scale — broad enough to read at a glance, compact enough not to snag on a sleeve. The 13.2 mm thickness is fair given what the movement is doing inside, and the fluted bezel keeps the aviation-instrument lineage unmistakeable. The screw-down crown adds 100 m water resistance; a domed sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating covers the front. At the caseback, Oris has made the single best decision available to it: a full sapphire display window, showing the barrel rather than hiding it. It is one of those choices that rewards both the collector who knows what they are looking at and the first-time buyer who simply finds the view compelling.
The movement: what a ten-day reserve actually means
Oris Calibre 111 is a manufacture movement — designed and produced in-house in Hölstein — and its headline figure of 240 hours (ten full days) of power reserve is not a marketing approximation. The architecture to achieve this is elegant in its simplicity: a single, exceptionally large mainspring barrel. That barrel is the dominant visual element through the sapphire caseback, and Oris has built the movement to showcase it rather than crowd it with unnecessary architecture.
The frequency is 28,800 vph — 4 Hz — the industry standard for daily-wear movements, and in a manually wound calibre a sensible choice that keeps regulation manageable without sacrificing timekeeping quality. Oris does not publish rated accuracy figures for the Calibre 111, but the brand’s manufacture movements are consistently regulated to low single-digit seconds per day at the factory.
The non-linear power-reserve indicator is a thoughtful piece of engineering. Most linear displays give a uniform readout across the full reserve range — useful, but imprecise where precision matters most. Oris has calibrated the Calibre 111’s indicator so it expands towards the end of the reserve: as the ten days runs out, the indicator becomes more granular, giving you a clear visual warning zone. It is the kind of feature that earns its keep in daily use rather than simply decorating the dial.
Why manual wind in 2026? The short answer is efficiency and purity. An automatic mechanism adds weight, thickness, and complexity; the oscillating rotor must be engineered not to destabilise the balance wheel in a watch worn on a moving wrist. For a movement defined by a single large barrel, the cleaner solution is a direct-wind crown, and Oris’s oversized ProPilot crown is eminently grippable. Wind it fully at the weekend and you will not think about it again until the following weekend — a discipline that appeals to the buyer who treats winding as engagement with the object rather than a chore to be automated.
The dials: black or pine green
Oris is offering the ProPilot Calibre 111 in two references — black and pine green — and both follow the same layout: a vertically brushed centre sector for the time display and a textured outer ring that frames the dial and adds depth. Arabic numerals and hour markers are applied in Super-LumiNova, as are the hand tips, so legibility in low light is strong. The overall character is formal enough for a business setting and purposeful enough to carry into the field — the balance the ProPilot series has always aimed for.
Pine green is the pick for most buyers. The tone Oris has chosen reads closer to deep forest than olive or military green, and it photographs dramatically without looking garish in person. On the Cordovan leather strap at $7,200, it is arguably the stronger of the two configurations — the dark brown leather and green dial form a combination that feels considered rather than obvious. The black dial on the steel bracelet is the conventional choice and will likely outsell the green by force of habit; that is the market’s preference, not the right one.
How it stacks up against the competition
The pilot-watch category at this price tier is competitive, and any honest assessment of the ProPilot Calibre 111 has to name the alternatives. Our IWC Pilot Watch buying guide covers the full range: the IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX — the natural comparison at around $5,800 — brings IWC’s considerable heritage and a five-day power reserve in an automatic movement. The Oris is $1,400 more on the strap, doubles the power reserve to ten days, and gives you the rarer option of a display caseback with visible manufacture movement. IWC gives you automatic convenience and stronger brand recognition; Oris gives you a more unusual mechanical proposition.
The Breitling Navitimer sits above the Oris on price and adds chronograph complications — the Navitimer B01 starts around $8,500 and builds upwards through precious metals and finishes. If you need a slide-rule bezel and a chronograph, the Navitimer wins by default; if you do not, you are paying substantially more for functions you will not use. The broader aviation-icon showdown is covered in our IWC Big Pilot versus Breitling Navitimer comparison for readers interested in that tier.
At the more accessible end, the Longines Spirit makes a compelling case for pilot-watch proportions at a substantially lower price point — our full Longines Spirit review covers it in detail. The Spirit’s automatic movement and COSC certification are strong arguments for buyers who prefer self-winding convenience and a lower entry cost. The ProPilot Calibre 111 costs roughly twice as much and addresses a different buyer: someone who wants a visible in-house manufacture movement, a dramatically longer reserve, and the discipline of manual winding.
Within the Oris lineup, the Oris Aquis remains the brand’s flagship dive platform — a very different tool in a different category, but worth mentioning because it illustrates how effectively Oris has built genuinely distinct product families. The ProPilot Calibre 111 sits at the top of the pilot-watch family and earns that position on movement credentials alone, not on heritage borrowed from another line.
Verdict
The Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 returned at WatchTime New York 2026 with a sharper case, the same exceptional movement, and two dial options where the pine green on Cordovan leather is the one to buy. At $7,200 on leather or $7,400 on bracelet, this is not a bargain by any conventional definition — but in the pilot-watch category at this price, there is no direct competitor offering a ten-day power reserve in a display-back manufacture movement. That is a genuinely rare position to occupy.
The watch suits buyers who wind their watch as part of a daily ritual, who want to see a manufacture movement from the caseback, and who prioritise a coherent mechanical story over the convenience of an automatic rotor. For the traveller who wants one watch to cover a transatlantic trip without needing a wind — ten days is exactly long enough. For the collector building a pilot-watch shelf, it is the most interesting addition to the segment in several years. Full show-floor context is in our WatchTime New York Day 2 recap; for upcoming Asia-region events see the Asia Watch Events Guide.
The Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 uses the in-house Oris Calibre 111 manual-wind movement, which provides a 240-hour (10-day) power reserve. A non-linear indicator on the dial shows remaining reserve with increasing precision as the reserve runs low.
The 2026 Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 is priced at $7,200 USD on the Cordovan leather strap and $7,400 USD on the stainless steel bracelet (CHF 5,900 and CHF 6,100 respectively). Prices were confirmed at the watch’s WatchTime New York 2026 debut on 16 October 2026.
There are four references: 01 111 7808 4164-07 6 20 19LC (black dial, Cordovan strap), 01 111 7808 4164-07 8 20 04LC (black dial, steel bracelet), 01 111 7808 4167-07 6 20 19LC (pine green dial, strap), and 01 111 7808 4167-07 8 20 04LC (pine green dial, bracelet). All are immediately available as part of the permanent collection.
Yes. The Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 is water-resistant to 100 metres, achieved with a screw-down crown. This is sufficient for swimming and everyday water exposure, though it is not rated for diving.
The IWC Pilot Mark XX is priced lower (around $5,800) and uses an automatic movement with a five-day power reserve. The Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 costs around $7,200, doubles the power reserve to ten days, and adds a display caseback with visible in-house barrel. IWC offers automatic winding convenience and stronger brand recognition; Oris offers a more unusual mechanical proposition at a similar price tier.
Both black and pine green are available. The pine green is the more distinctive choice — a deep forest tone that reads elegantly on the Cordovan leather strap. The black dial on the steel bracelet is the conventional option. If you want the watch to stand out, pine green on Cordovan leather is the configuration to choose.
Sources: WatchTime — Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 Touches Down at WatchTime New York 2026 (16 Oct 2026, Sabine Zwettler); Monochrome Watches — Introducing: Oris Sharpens the ProPilot Calibre 111 (16 Oct 2026); Fratello Watches — The Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 Returns More Than a Decade After Its Introduction (16 Oct 2026).
