Asia Watch Events 2026–27 · WatchTime New York 2026 · Day 2
Saturday brought the public through the doors of Gotham Hall for the first time at WatchTime New York 2026 — day passes at $35 each, and the room was worth every cent. While Day 1’s VIP night gave the opening wave of collectors their first look at eight standout pieces, Day 2 is where the breadth of the show reveals itself: independent ateliers alongside established maisons, accessible complications sitting next to seven-figure unicorns, and the kind of hands-on time with movements you simply cannot get at a standard boutique. We pulled the seven watches that defined Saturday at Gotham Hall. For the full exhibitor list see our pre-show guide; Day 1 recaps are already up, and the T‑1 preview names the ten pieces we flagged before doors opened.
Day 2 at a glance
Most complex: Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater — flying tourbillon, cathedral gongs, 12 pieces. Most dramatic display: Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum — wandering-hour framework that reconfigures each hour, 25 per finish. Best oil-filled independent: Ressence Type 10 DN — second time zone, temperature indicator, 100 pieces. Best value: Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 — ten days of power reserve at an accessible price. Tickets: Day passes $35 each at watchtimeevents.com; Sunday 18 Oct 11 AM–4 PM EDT.
1. Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater — the most complex watch at Gotham Hall
One-line take: a flying tourbillon and minute repeater on cathedral gongs, in 12 pieces of rose gold. Jacob & Co. is not a brand that does half-measures, and the Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater is its most ambitious New York showing in years. The 43 mm rose-gold case opens to calibre JCCM04 — hand-wound, 90 h reserve — driving a flying tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock while twin cathedral gongs strike hours, quarters, and minutes on demand. The chime’s tempo is regulated by a silent centrifugal governor: a spinning fly-fan that keeps the striking speed constant regardless of how much tension remains in the mainspring. The dial is red mineral — deep ochre-red, almost geological — and gives the movement a theatrical backdrop that photographs as well as it performs live. Twelve numbered pieces. Price on application, and that conversation will start in the mid-six figures.
2. Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum — a wandering-hours display that reinvents itself every hour
One-line take: Urwerk takes its satellite-hours formula and adds a display framework that restructures itself on the hour — 25 pieces per finish. The UR-300 is named for the smallest indivisible unit of Urwerk time-display logic, and the name earns its place. The T-shaped satellite arm that carries the hour marker shifts its geometry at the top of each hour, so 12:00 looks structurally different from 1:00 — the display architecture itself is part of the complication. The case is 45.2 × 58.8 mm in titanium, so this is not a watch that goes unnoticed. The UR-30.01V automatic runs 44 h. Two finishes: Titan (natural titanium) and dark AlTiN (PVD coating), 25 pieces each. No retail price announced at Gotham Hall; Urwerk’s previous UR-200 series settled in the CHF 60,000 – 80,000 range. Among all the display watches on the floor this year, the UR-300 makes the strongest claim to being genuinely new.
3. MB&F LM1 EVO — the Legacy Machine gets a sport upgrade and stays just as beautiful
One-line take: the LM1 architecture gains FlexRing protection and 80 m water resistance — and the balance is still floating at 12 o’clock under a bi-hemispherical crystal. MB&F’s Legacy Machine 1 has been the brand’s best argument for independent watchmaking since 2011: twin independently adjustable time displays, a horizontally mounted balance wheel hovering at the dome of the crystal, and case architecture that reads as sculpture before it reads as a timepiece. The EVO iteration adds FlexRing shock protection to the suspended balance, raises water resistance to 80 m, and introduces a new crown guard. Case remains 42 mm; the movement is hand-wound with 60 h reserve. The rose-gold version with a green dome — limited to 33 pieces — is the New York show’s most photographed watch for good reason. Price on application. For collectors building an independent watchmaking collection, our independent and micro-brand guide maps the landscape this sits within.
4. Chopard L.U.C Full Strike “Día de los Muertos” Edition 13 — 160 hours of marquetry and sapphire gongs
One-line take: a unique piece whose dial took 160 hours to make from straw and eggshell, and whose gongs are formed from the sapphire crystal itself. This is a one-of-a-kind watch. Chopard’s artisans spent 160 hours assembling a calavera skull dial from fragments of natural straw and eggshell marquetry, each piece placed by hand under magnification. The movement underneath is the L.U.C Full Strike: a minute repeater complication in which the gongs are machined from the watch’s own sapphire crystal, making the case itself the resonating body. Calibre L.U.C 08.01-L is hand-wound with 60 h reserve and carries the Geneva Seal. The case is 42.5 mm ethical rose gold. “Día de los Muertos” Edition 13 is the thirteenth unique piece in this numbered series; there will be no second example. Price on request, and this watch has already found its owner. It is here because the conversation around it — what craft costs, what a truly unique object is — matters to the whole room.
5. Ressence Type 10 DN — an oil-filled display with a second time zone and a temperature indicator
One-line take: Ressence’s most practical oil-filled watch yet, with a second time zone and a first-of-its-kind oil-temperature indicator — 100 pieces. Ressence built its reputation by filling its dial module with oil — no air gap, no reflections — and using a patented system (ROCS: Ressence Orbital Convex System) to rotate discs under the fluid so the display appears to float. The Type 10 DN is 41.5 mm in DLC-coated titanium, running an automatic RW-04 calibre with 60 h reserve. What is new: a second time zone display, an integrated rubber strap, a 120-second complication sub-dial, and — most practically significant — an oil-temperature indicator that flags if the filling needs attention over time. Earlier Type 10 references entered at around EUR 20,000. Limited to 100 pieces. For the collector wondering where brands like Ressence fit in the landscape of independent watchmaking, our micro-brand and independent guide covers the broader picture.
6. Arnold & Son DSTB Stop-Seconds — a true-beat escapement with crown-pull precision setting
One-line take: true-beat seconds stepping once per second, now with a crown-pull stop-seconds function — 18 pieces in each of two case materials. Arnold & Son’s DSTB (Dial Side True Beat) has always rewarded the patient observer: the seconds hand steps once per second, and the escapement — normally hidden under the movement — is displayed on the dial side where you can watch it work. For this edition, the brand adds a crown-pull stop-seconds function, a traditional watchmaker’s precision tool now built into the watch itself, allowing the owner to set the time to the exact second without disturbing the seconds train. Two editions: red gold with a Cliff Grey dial and platinum with a Kingsand dial, each limited to 18 pieces. Calibre A&S6303 automatic, 55 h reserve. No retail price announced at Gotham Hall. Arnold & Son operates quietly in a show that rewards noise; the DSTB Stop-Seconds is worth a deliberate visit to their case.
7. Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 — ten days of power reserve and the best practical story on the floor
One-line take: ten days of autonomy, a new organic texture dial, and Oris making its most direct argument yet for the working pilot’s watch category. Oris has built a persuasive case at the mid-market — see our Grand Seiko vs Oris comparison for where the brand positions itself — and the ProPilot Calibre 111 is the clearest expression of that argument yet. Calibre 111 is hand-wound and delivers ten days of power reserve from a large-diameter mainspring barrel; the reserve indicator uses a non-linear scale that compresses readings in the final zone, where most movements begin to drift. The redesigned dial has an organic texture that reads as functional rather than decorative. Black and pine-green options are available with a steel bracelet or Cordovan leather strap. 43 mm steel. For context on the pilot watch category, our IWC pilot watch guide explains the genre’s key reference points. Retail price not yet confirmed for North America; the ProPilot range has historically run well below comparable Swiss pilot watches with similar power-reserve claims.
WatchTime New York 2026 closes Sunday 18 October at 4 PM EDT — the final public day. Day 3 coverage follows in this series. All prices in USD unless noted; prices marked unconfirmed were not published by the exhibiting brands at Gotham Hall and will be updated when released.
Sources: WatchTime New York 2026 — 14 New Releases (Oct 2026); WatchTime “6 Must-See Watches” (Oct 2026); Robb Report — 10 Most Exciting New Watches at WatchTime New York (Oct 2026).
WatchTime New York 2026 closes at 4 PM EDT on Sunday 18 October. Public doors open at 11 AM. Day passes are $35 each at watchtimeevents.com.
Each of the two finishes — Titan and dark AlTiN — is limited to 25 pieces, for a combined production of 50 watches. No retail price was announced at WatchTime New York 2026.
Yes. The LM1 EVO raises water resistance to 80 m and adds FlexRing shock protection to the suspended balance wheel — a significant upgrade over the original LM1. The rose-gold and green dome version shown at WatchTime New York 2026 is limited to 33 pieces.
The Type 10 DN is the first Ressence to include an oil-temperature indicator — a sub-display that alerts the owner if the proprietary oil filling the dial module moves outside its operating range. The oil gives the dial its reflectionless, floating appearance; the indicator ensures long-term calibration.
Calibre 111 is hand-wound and uses a large-diameter mainspring barrel. The non-linear power-reserve indicator is compressed in the final stage where most movements begin to lose accuracy, making the practical reliable reserve closer to eight to nine days at spec rates. Oris has used Calibre 111 across the ProPilot line since its introduction.
