The Rolex Explorer II is the wilder, more adventurous sibling of the classic Explorer — a 42mm GMT watch with a fixed 24-hour bezel originally designed for cave explorers who could not tell day from night underground. Today’s Ref. 216570 is available in white or black dial and remains one of Rolex’s most distinctive and underappreciated sports watches.
History: Designed for Darkness
Rolex introduced the Explorer II in 1971 specifically for speleologists — cave explorers who spent extended periods underground with no natural light cues. Unlike the GMT-Master (designed for pilots tracking two time zones), the Explorer II’s 24-hour fixed bezel solves a different problem: distinguishing AM from PM when you cannot see the sun. The bold orange 24-hour hand points to the fixed bezel to indicate whether it is daytime (12–24, the red/orange section) or night-time (0–12).
The original Ref. 1655 — nicknamed the “Steve McQueen” for reasons debated by historians — established the Explorer II’s design language: larger than the Explorer, a prominent orange 24-hour hand, and the fixed engraved bezel. These elements remain present in today’s watch.
Current Model: Ref. 216570
| Specification | Detail |
|---|---|
| Reference | 216570 |
| Production | 2011–2021 (replaced by 226570) |
| Case Size | 42mm |
| Case Material | 904L Oystersteel |
| Bezel | Fixed, engraved 24-hour scale |
| Movement | Calibre 3187 |
| Power Reserve | ~48 hours |
| Water Resistance | 100m |
| Dial Options | White (“Polar”) or Black |
White “Polar” Dial vs Black Dial
The Explorer II 216570 is available in two dial configurations. The white “Polar” dial is widely considered the more desirable — the contrast between the white dial, orange GMT hand, and black bezel markings creates a striking visual that is immediately distinctive and highly legible. The black dial is more conventional and arguably more versatile with formal attire. In the pre-owned market, the Polar dial consistently commands a 10–20% premium.
Explorer vs Explorer II: Which?
| Feature | Explorer (124270) | Explorer II (226570) |
|---|---|---|
| Case Size | 36mm | 42mm |
| GMT Function | No | Yes (fixed bezel, 24h hand) |
| Date | No | Yes (magnified) |
| Water Resistance | 100m | 100m |
| Character | Minimalist, understated | Bold, adventurous |
| Retail (approx.) | ~$7,150 | ~$9,700 |
2021 Update: Ref. 226570
In 2021 Rolex updated the Explorer II to the Ref. 226570 — retaining the 42mm case but updating to the Calibre 3285 (70-hour power reserve, Chronergy escapement). The new model also updated the bracelet and clasp to Rolex’s latest generation. The 216570 pre-owned market has remained robust as a result — collectors appreciate its slightly softer proportions and the proven Cal. 3187.
Verdict
The Rolex Explorer II is the choice for the Rolex buyer who wants something beyond the Submariner — more unusual, equally capable, and with a backstory rooted in genuine exploration rather than aspirational sport. The white Polar dial version is one of the most striking sports watches in the Rolex catalogue. For buyers who appreciate purpose-built design with a story behind it, the Explorer II is the answer.
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